This page covers things I have learned and why I did what I did in my 1000.1000 project. Some experience, random calculations, opinions and thoughts.
So what is the battery philosophy? Should I make everything last as long as possible and change batteries each time some device is dead? What if I have 100 devices at home? Should I use the smallest battery that lasts 1 year and change all of them every year? The expected lifetime for motion sensors will be close to 1 year of life while devices like temp sensors could go for up to 10 years on AA batteries, with others falling in between.
I am staying out of energy harvesting, be it simple solar or more complicated as this is not a universal solution. Long operating times are a must, randomly needing to replace the batteries of many devices every few months becomes quite a big hassle, even for a small home.
On top of that, no weird shapes, just CR2032, AAA and AA.
Inside the devices, the brains will be a microcontroller, while radio will take care of communication, we’ll call this ‘the core’. Finding the optimal pair is not an easy task. There will be a huge diversity of devices and tasks and one size fits all might not be the best way to go. At the opposite side of the spectrum, the optimum size for each function will blow up in an unmanageable diversity. I know how little it takes to get a button and an LED on the internet, a few times more than that to measure a bunch of LEDs and quite a lot more to get a nice user interface. I am aiming for 2 flavours of the core: devices that need to be very power efficient and devices that can feast from an all you can drink buffet of electrons. If possible for the 2 aromas to merge into one and get power efficiency and performance, even better.
Universal – particular
Going full universal and making a node board suited for all the required tasks is complicated. Let’s just look at the power supply: some devices can work from most range of 2x AA batteries, some need at least 3V, some will need more. Combine with USB power when connected while sipping every last bit from batteries and it gets complicated to manage already.
Using a pair of boards suited for a specific task serves as the best compromise for the majority of things. First, a ‘Core’ contains the microcontroller and radio, along with programming options and maybe regulator. Attached to this is an application specific board. This split allows for faster design times, as a new application board contains only the minimum, specific parts.
In my experience, using small scale assembly, getting 40 simpler boards (20 & 20) designed and assembled is simpler than designing a more universal one and then assembling it with missing components and different configurations.
Drop by the Hardware page to check the solutions.
But how complicated?
I counted about 100 simple devices that I want to measure, control or interact with in my home for now. A simple device is a switch, a light, a motion sensor, temperature sensor, button, led, small display, power meter, switch, plant humidity etc. The combinations of these will result in functionality of the system, like a motion activated light. In order to minimize the amount of hardware, I have grouped them by functionality and location. Keeping the universal – particular balance, I grouped the devices in “common denominators”. The surprise here was that each core needs to handle just 2 devices on average.
This points out to the complexity required for each ‘core’. Drop by the Hardware page to check the solutions.
Software and hardware modularity go hand in hand. While OOP is not my favourite on microcontrollers, it’s the best way here. Fundamentally, most devices will fall in just a few classes (GPIO, analog I/O, read/write at a specific I2C address, PWM, counter etc). Allow these types of classes to operate on any hardware resource and the platform becomes highly modular.
Step up or step down
A step up regulator used for this application like the TLV61225 does not squeeze every last bit of battery when using a power hungry radio. The radio I will use needs 45mA while transmitting. Supplying this current from a step up regulator providing 3.3V from a pair of discharged AA batteries at 2V proved problematic, as this requires close to 100mA of current, taking into account the efficiency. Because of the high internal resistance, the voltage drops too much shutting down the node with significant charge left in the batteries.
The other alternative, of using an LDO from 3 AA(A) batteries provides a longer battery life as it discharges them at half the current (taking into account the different number of batteries). Efficiency is not that bad either, as with 3.3V out and a fresh set of batteries (4.5V) it starts at 73%. As the batteries discharge, the efficiency increases (funny, ha).
How much does it cost to keep an ESP8266 running per year?
Assuming always on, 70mA from a standard 5V supply through linear regulator, 0.35W consumed. Adding inefficiency and self consumption of DC/DC converter getting to 0.6W from mains(I measured). This is 5KWh per year, or about 1.1 euro at average EU price. If the price does not tell you anything, think of the effort for a human to produce this: your not so sporty, but decently conditioned person would spend 50 hours on a bike.
A pair of AA batteries will set me 0.4€ (in some quantity) and have the potential to keep a low power radio running a few years. So a low power radio battery powered temperature sensor will cost more in the long run compared to a cheap, mains powered ESP8266 temperature sensor.
NRF24L01 goes a long way….or does it?
I have used a hell lot of NRFs in my project, Stockie and encountered no major issues. They are super cheap and easy to get…but the very low transmission power limits the range. Not so fast! By combining the low power modules on the Stockies with a high power modules and antenna on the gateway I could get a lot of range (+/- 1 floors and anywhere inside the apartment). With a caveat, that did not matter for the application: allowing a lot of retries, just to play it safe.
I started working on this project with a RFM75 in mind, which is a clone of the NRF as well. It comes from a distributor, because of my ‘no cheap china‘ rule. The first lesson: automatic ACK does not work between cloned NRF modules and RFM75 modules. Rumor has it that Nordic hid some things in the datasheet and some bits are actually flipped in the packet, with the NRF clones following the datasheet while the RFM following the over the air transmission. Hence, automatic packet ACK and retry does not work between the sensor nodes (RFM75) and a NRF24L01 PA LNA (=NRF clone) gateway.
Implementing ACK in software (I used the Radiohead library) showed a higher on air time for the modules, hence more power. This really shows the advantages of the auto ACK the module does in HW.
Moreover, modules located far from the gateway required a significant amount of retries before getting a packet through, quite frequently. This leads to higher battery consumption and unpleasant delays, which could end up being a second even, which pretty much killed this module. I have tried the system with a single node, so only the nearby WiFis as pollution, though quite a lot of them.
So I moved on to my next favourite, the RFM69, which is superior due to operating in sub GHz band, more power and lower data rate. Check out the hardware section for more thoughts on this and my wishes for the perfect radio.