Fun with LEDs

Introduction

I have recently stumbled upon some LED strip at my local electronics shop and decided to give them a try. I bought some which I used to replace the spot lights in the kitchen. It is cold white, which is surprisingly good, especially for night time illumination (think moonlight like hue). It works at 12V and consumes about 0.25A per meter.

After installing the strip, some automation proved to be necessary, and so the following circuits were built. The goal in mind was to keep things as simple as possible and use only parts I had at hand, which is why the solution might not be the best.

The hallway spotlights got new white LEDs as well and a light sensor. Tiny PIR sensors will turn on the lights in the kitchen and bathroom when someone comes in range. The sensors are rather popular modules using a BISS0001 IC; they provide a 3.3V level for an adjustable time when motion is detected.

Overall the results are great. The hallway is lit at night, the there is a small automatic light for the bathroom and the automatic kitchen light is bright enough even for day time illumination of the sink and counter. The slow turn off provides both a visually pleasing effect and a warning in case someone stood still long enough to make the light go off. I am still looking for a simple solution to produce the same effect on turn on, but without the delay.

 

Simple light sensor

The circuit is used to turn on the hallway lights. T2 will turn off when it is dark enough, allowing T1 to turn ON and light up the LEDs. The threshold is determined by the divider formed with a photo resistor and a potentiometer. I gave up using a constant current supply in the favor of a simple current limiting resistor because at around 100mA of current (set with R3) there is no danger of thermal runaway.

The circuit was built inside a small remote control case, here it is at first tests:

 

Simple PIR sensor

The PIR sensors themselves cannot turn on a strip of LEDs so, for the bathroom light I have used a simple transistor amplifier. The light is made up of just 20cm of light strip consuming about 50mA, but it produces enough light for a sleepy person to be able to use the bathroom without the need of the bright waking main light.

Driving the transistor through the diode insures and instant on, but once the PIR turns off, C1 will discharge through R2 slowly turning off the LEDs during a few seconds. My initial desire was to have the same effect at turn on, but the time required to charge the capacitor up to the threshold voltage will produce a few seconds of delay which in practice causes undesirable effect.

Note that I have symbolized the LED strip through its basic cell, 3 LEDs in series with a resistor.

And the assembled circuit on the cap of a wiring box:

PIR and light sensor

For the kitchen strip I wanted both of the functions above: a dim light when it gets dark and motion sensor turn on. The circuit is not exactly the combination of the two since I had to take into account different things.

First, the light sensor was simplified since I found out that 10mA (limited by R7) worth of current through the strip produce enough light for the night (yes, that little current makes the strip give enough light to see what it is in front of me). This means that a single transistor is enough.

The light sensor turn on circuit became a little more complicated, mostly due to the parts I had available. The transistor has to drive more current (close to 0.5A) and support the heating produced during the slow turn off when it will dissipate more power. The only suitable transistor I had available was an IRF9530. This required another transistor to drive it. Just like the previous circuit, turn on carried as fast as possible, but the light turns off in a few seconds. R6 was initially 150K, until I discovered that this produces a delay in turn on. It may be simply shorted.

Schematic:

I first fixed the PIR lens and then inserted the photoressitor inside it:

The finished module (some resistors were still changed  afterwards):

Installed in the kitchen (still needs some to get some wires arranged):

The mounting conditions forced me to use an aluminum profile for first fixing the strip onto it and to split the whole thing in two pieces. Unfortunately, Murphy caught in:

Other notes: The strips were sprayed with a few layers of acrylic to ensure good insulation, just for added safety, as the power supply is insulated from the mains.

 

The math on consumption

I did some math on the consumed energy. The power supply spec says that it should consume less than 0.3W unloaded. So, per month, that gives:

0.3 * 24 * 30 = 216Wh;

Assuming the night lights turn on for an average of 12 hours per day, this gives:

(0.1 + 0.01)  * 12 * 12 * 30 = 475Wh;

2 hours (exaggerated)  of daily kitchen use:

0.5 * 12 * 2 * 30 =  360Wh;

2 hours (exaggerated)  of daily bathroom use:

0.05 * 12 * 2 * 30 =  36Wh;

Monthly total:

216+475+360+36 = 1087 Wh, or approximately 1 KWh per month., which is very little.

Unlocking stuck photo filters

Normally, you shouldn’t mount a polarizing filter on top of an UV filter. If you do, there are big chances that they will be hard to unscrew afterwards, mainly because of the rotating part of the polarizer. You will probably end up removing both of them from the camera, just like below:

There are a few solutions to unlocking them out there, including the professional one of getting filter wrenches, but I’ve got a simpler method. All you need is a ribbon, like this:

Wind it around the filter so that it “grabs” both the fixed and the rotating part of the polarizer. Hold one end of the ribbon between the index and the middle finger and the other one between the index and the thumb.

Make sure you leave a little to have some slack here. Now, use the thumb to press on the little extra ribbon as this creates tension.

The tension is enough to firmly grab hold of the filter and allow you to use the other hand to unscrew the UV filter.

The good thing about this method is the ease of finding a ribbon. You can use one from flower bouquets or even a shoelace!  It is usable just as well to unlock a filter that it is stuck on the camera.

Upgrading spotlights to LED

I’ve got a couple of 12V halogen spot lights on the hallway of my apartment. I rarely turn them on because other lights usually service the area.  This made me think that I could just make them dimmer and leave them on the whole night, so I’ve found a simple method to replace the bulb and mirror with a LED. The choice is orange, because i already had them and because orange light seems more pleasant while waking up at night for a fridge walk.

The spot lights, coming from Ikea, were quickly stripped of the bulb and mirror. The resulting space was big enough to allow me to install the LED and a small heatsink make of two used L shaped aluminum profiles. I’ve used thermal paste for the LED and between the aluminum brackets and glue to fix everything to the back of the spot light. Plastic washers ensured the screws didn’t create a short considering how the screws were mounted.

The LEDs used here are 350mA types, but I made a constant current supply to use them at about 160mA because this provided good enough lighting. In this setup, even in the closed spot light, the heatsink barely heats which means that there is adequate cooling. Power is ensured by an old 9V transformer at the moment (I’m thinking that the original 20W electronic transformer might do the job if I add a rectifier at the output).

For future use I’m thinking of hooking up a PIR sensor so that they will light more when someone is passing by or a light level sensor for automatic turn on.