LED logger V2

Intro

I’ve previously wanted to know how much do cheap led strips last: turned out they don’t even pay for themselves over incandescent bulbs. I’ve decided to extend the experiment to more kinds of strips and address some concerns about the experiment expressed by the readers.

 LED logger V 2

In short:  8 channels, internet connected for live data visible by anyone. The experiment is trying to measure the light intensity variation over time, while maintaining the environment conditions constant.

Power supply: all strips are designed by their manufacturer to be powered from 12V. A 12V stabilized supply is used to power everything. In the first experiment I have periodically checked the voltage across the strip and found it to be constant. Now, the voltage is measured and plotted.

Temperature: all the strips together will dissipate around 2-3W and are placed on a big aluminum plate which is the box front panel. With what I have so far (4 working nonstop) the temperature of the panel raises 6 degrees C above ambient. The whole box is placed in a well-ventilated area inside the house, with an ambient temperature around 25 deg C, with small variations throughout the year. Therefore the strips are well cooled and operate in a rather constant temperature.

Sensor degradation: in order to verify that the sensor is still reporting correctly I have installed a strip that will only be lit for a short time at each measurement to check that the sensor has not changed. By measuring a strip identical to the first I have found that the sensor produces identical results, so there is no degradation over the 1400 hour time first experiment.

Current Data:

Here’s how the current data looks like:  https://cosm.com/feeds/82160 . For more information about the strips, see below.

NOTE: At the moment the software has 2 bugs: It sometimes stops updating, although the LEDs remain on. So the values for the LEDs are correct, but may be old; i’ll periodically reset the device to ensure fresh data is available. Also, the PSU voltage seems to have measurement errors at the first readout(I’ve checked with a voltmeter, there’s no fluctuation in the PSU). So, out of order values for PSU voltage should be ignored.

Meet the candidates

The control strip is identical to the strip used in the first experiment, except that is has not been used. It turns out that it produces the exact same readout as the first strip, meaning that the sensor has not been degraded over the 1400 hours of initial test. The control strip and the original strip are the best aligned to the sensor.

Strip 1 is the strip used in the first led logger. It starts with a 1400 hour usage.

Strip 2 is made by Optoflash, it’s similar to the others except that the light is cold white. It’s a bit more expensive, comes from TME and there are no details about lifetime in the datasheet, but at least there is some sort of datasheet.

Strip 3 is an Ikea ledberg strip. It’s rated at 20.000 hours, but without any info as to how this time is measured.

Strip 4 is actually a waterproof module from a local shop that I paid about 1 EUR for. I don’t know anything more.

Strips 5 to 7 will be determined and added later.

The logger

Its PCB is developed from that of the ego box, replacing the 7 segment drivers with 8 channel high power drivers. Everything is based on tuxgraphics.org web client and someone has already done the task of making it work with Cosm (ex Pachube).

Schematic is quite trivial, you have your micro, your Ethernet chip and some MOS transistors to drive and control the LED strips.

Everything is built around the same box used in the previous project. The three wires in the middle are for three extra channels.

The data

The intensity of each channel is measured every hour by turing all channels OFF and then measuring each intensity. After that, all the strips except the control turn back on. Data is uploaded to Cosm and can be found here https://cosm.com/feeds/82160.

Now it only needs time to add data points and check how these strips compare.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Blue Panda

Intro

I was really impressed by how well the Serioux Panda Shaped stereo speakers performed when I received them as a gift. They have a really good sound, there’s a lot of improvement compared to the speakers in my laptop. But this is not what I want to use them for; after all, I’ve got two huge speakers by my laptop. I wanted some portable speakers. With Bluetooth.

 The panda

The Panda speakers are rated at 2x1W (but I suspect they can do more) and contain a TPA6020A2 bridge amplifier. Audio quality is impressively good for their size. This is why I considered them useful for broadcasting music wirelessly in another room.

The energy source is actually very simple: the Panda speakers need either 3 AAA batteries or 5V from a USB port or phone charger or, in my case, a portable battery. So using them with a portable battery makes them portable… except that they are not wireless. I remembered I had a Bluetooth headset bought specially for sending audio from my phone to another room which I don’t need anymore.

DSC_6036

 

The blue panda

When I initially bought the Bluetooth adapter I did not require or expect good quality so I bought the cheapest I could find, but it turned out that it has very good audio quality. So I decided to pair them together. Luckily the Bluetooth adapter fits perfectly inside the three AAA battery case at the bottom of the panda after removing the contacts and some tiny spacers. The buttons stay flush with the panda so they are not pressed when it is seated on something.

DSC_6040DSC_6034

The Bluetooth module is powered by a lithium battery which I removed. To power it I will be using the 5V from the panda with a 1N4148 diode in series. This, along with a Schottky protection diode inside the Panda, brings the voltage down to about 4V, right what it is expected from a battery. The microphone was removed, but i am thinking of installing it back so that I can use the panda as a call speaker. 

DSC_6041DSC_6038

I did not want to lose the possibility to send audio through the cable to the panda, so I decided to keep its cable. To make it use both audio from the Bluetooth module and cable I summed both signals through 1K resistors before applying them to the original 10K potentiometer (I matched 4 resistors with the potentiometer since I only had 5% tolerance available). This works perfectly as a mixer letting the panda use both sources at the same time, but I can’t seem to find a situation where I could use it like this.

DSC_6043

The finished blue panda looks just like the original one, except the bottom where there are the controls for the Bluetooth. The final audio quality and power are very good and fits great for my need. I believe that if I were to buy same quality Bluetooth speakers I would have to spend a lot more money than these two cost combined.

Here’s the final device sitting on top of my 4×18650 portable USB charger. Given the capacity of the battery i would say I should get at least 20 hours of music at moderate-high levels.

DSC_6049

 

 

LED logger

Why?

About half a year ago I installed a 3 meter warm white led strip above my desk. Although I didn’t spend a lot of money on it I am really happy with the light quality and intensity. Lately I was thinking about adding more LED strips and was checking the options. One important aspect that comes to mind is about the lifetime of these products, are they better than bulbs, overall? Obviously there’s no specification you can trust anywhere. So, how do I know if cheap strips are good enough or it is worth spending the money on more expensive ones? Measure some data for the cheap ones and see if they are good enough. The experiment was designed to be simple, not extremely accurate.

Update:

The measuring method has been criticized, and some of the claims are fair: there’s no control and the sensor may degrade. I have stopped the experiment after 1400 hours to upgrade it. But first, i replaced the measured strip with an identical, unused one and the sensor reads exactly the same as in the beginning. So, there is NO sensor degradation. Later, when the measurements will reach the 70% threshold i will replace the strip with another identical unused one and compare the sensor readout. This should eliminate the sensor variable and provide control. See new experiment, LED logger v2.

The Logger

I setup a very simple device, for first measurement attempt: a metal project box houses 15 cm of unused strip that shines light on a TLS2550 sensor, everything being isolated from ambient light. The strip is placed on the aluminum front panel of the box, providing a great amount of cooling for the strip, much more than real life applications where it could be mounted on wood or walls. The box is sealed so there’s no ambient light going in of dust.

This sensor is really great: it has I2C interface, high dynamic range and approximates the human eye response, giving the result directly in lux (after some math). I’ve used a microcontroller and an EEPROM memory with a couple of years of space, storing data every 6 hours. There’s a serial port that provides a simple interface with an instant read, memory erase and memory dump. Current is measured over a 2 ohm resistor and stored as ADC counts. The used board is Arduino compatible, but it was not used with the Arduino environment, just your regular C.

 

Results:

The light has been on continuously for about 700 hours, almost a month 1400 hours, two months.. The graph shown below will be updated periodically.  So far, the LED strip has dropped about 12% 18% in brightness compared to the beginning. Current has stayed the same, meaning that they are actually reducing their efficiency.

 

Although it is too soon to tell exactly I decided to try to predict the life of the LEDs. Since they don’t burn but rather fade, I think that the point where they dropped to 70% of initial intensity is a good mark of their end of life in applications where they are used for lighting and not decoration.

Using an exponential projection I found that it will take just 2200 hours until the LEDs drop to 70% of their initial intensity. This is rather disappointing, even for cheap LEDs. In about 2-3 more months I should know for sure how good this initial prediction is, but I doubt it will be too far from the truth. UPDATE: after about 1400 hours of use, the prediction still stands, the strip will fall to 70% around 2200 hours.

 

How bright is a LED strip?

A while ago I made an experiment which tried to find out how much light a 3m led strip could give. Obviously lacking any specialized equipment I tried to compare it to some references. I used a room and cut the strip in 50 cm pieces and grouped them on the ceiling. I used my camera to determine the correct exposure of the whole room. Next I proceeded to replace the LED strip with bulbs that could give me the same exposure. I found that I need a 25W and a 40W incandescent to arrive to this. According to the bulb packages they each give 200 and 400 lm, totaling 600 lumens.

Using my modified power meter I found that the strip consumes 14.3W from the mains. This means that the LEDs are about 42 lumen/watt, which, as an idea, is comparable to the worst CFLs and is still rather poor for LEDs. But, do remember that this takes into account the PSU, which is the right way to evaluate for practical reasons.

 

LED strip vs incandescent: Preliminary conclusion

Based on the price I paid for the LED strip (~4.5 EUR/m), local electricity price of about 0. 09 EUR/KWh and bulb price, but excluding the LED PSU and workmanship for installing everything it takes 2800 hours for the LEDs to become cheaper than the incandescent.

Since my strip is not considered useful after 2200 hours as it becomes too dim, it means that it is not a cost effective solution for illumination, compared to incandescent bulbs. LEDs are supposed to save energy and money. It appease that low cost strips are not a good way for that.

What about more expensive LED strips? I used the same thinking as above and found more expensive strips with Nichia LEDs require about 7000 hours before they become cheaper than incandescent, again excluding the PSU. This is a rather rough estimation considering the brightness and efficiency specs are right. Again, the manufacturer of the strips doesn’t give any data about the intensity decay, so the cost effectiveness of the solution is still unknown.

 

Download

The code for the logger is available for download here. It’s free for non commercial use and rather unpolished.